The threads that bind: Wheelwright looks at the fashion and family of a Native American art dynasty
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When legendary artist Pablita Velarde attended prestigious events, she dressed for the part.
Velarde鈥檚 clothing, along with that of her daughter Helen Hardin and granddaughter Margarete Bagshaw, are on display at Santa Fe鈥檚 Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian through April 12, 2025.
Each painter was independently known as one of the finest of her generation, and their conscious and graceful crafting of style secured their iconic status.
The threads that bind: Wheelwright looks at the fashion and family of a Native American art dynasty
These items were also shared. Clothing and jewelry were witness to their complex, evolving relationships and intimacy as a family.
Pablita Velarde (Tse Tsan, Golden Dawn, 1918-2006) was well known to Native art collectors for several decades. She was born at Santa Clara Pueblo and was active until her death in 2006. She was the first full-time female student in Dorothy Dunn鈥檚 art class at the Santa Fe Indian School. She painted in the 鈥渢raditional鈥� style and did accurate portraits of Native American life and culture.
Velarde launched an artistic dynasty through her daughter Helen Hardin (Tsa-sah-wee-eh, Little Standing Spruce, 1943-1984) and granddaughter Margarete Bagshaw (1964-2015).
With a nod to fashion wrapped in Native American style, the women鈥檚 clothing features entire outfits of skirts, blouses, dresses, jewelry and shoes.
The show germinated from a similar exhibition of Velarde鈥檚 jewelry, said curator Henrietta Lidchi.
鈥淥ne of her outfits had stayed in the Case Trading Post,鈥� she explained.
Lidchi learned Velarde鈥檚 great-granddaughter Helen Tindel had boxes of the women鈥檚 clothing and jewelry. The curator suggested an exhibition.
鈥淎ll three of them had to negotiate the art world, and part of that negotiation was how they presented,鈥� she said. 鈥淭hey were on display, but they were also extremely self-determined. Pablita was effectively (Tindel鈥檚) grandmother because Helen Hardin died before she was born.鈥�
Velarde often bought clothes in sa国际传媒官网网页入口 at Margarete Chase鈥檚 dress shop. Margarete Bagshaw was named for her, Lidchi said.
Velarde鈥檚 green and yellow ensemble featured appliqued corn and figural symbols around the hem. She wore it with her silver squash blossom necklace to openings and markets.
She also wore her white cotton dress with a blue woolen manta in the 1950s.
鈥淭hat was one of the outfits she wore for tribal occasions,鈥� Lidchi said. 鈥淭here are a number of photographs of her wearing that belt.鈥�
Helen Hardin wore the off-the-shoulder green dress with embroidered trim when she moved to Colombia with her father in 1971. Her first solo show was in Guatemala.
Hardin also wore a cotton polka-dot dress with turquoise and red and white rickrack.
鈥淚t looks like a fiesta style dress,鈥� Lidchi said.
The stylish Bagshaw wore a one-shoulder custom-made dress with red ribbon trim by Josie Marquez.
鈥淚t鈥檚 clothing that鈥檚 like regalia more than clothing to do gardening,鈥� Lidchi added. 鈥淭hey were Native American artists trying to forge their way in a world that was very different from them. It was a complex proposition for an independent woman to manage. It has sort of an emotional pull.鈥�
A case encloses sketches, gifts and photographs from the three artists.
鈥淭he clothing is more similar than you might imagine,鈥� Lidchi said. 鈥淚t pulls together all the women when they were young.鈥�
