FOOD | DINING REVIEW
DINING REVIEW: D鈥檚 BBQ, Shawarma Loco are unique additions to sa国际传媒官网网页入口鈥檚 food scene
For those who don鈥檛 think of gas stations as dining destinations, I present to you D鈥檚 BBQ Soulfood & Seafood and Shawarma Loco.
The two places, located at gas stations on Wyoming Boulevard in the Northeast Heights, have been drawing praise since their openings.
That the owners of both spots are transplants from Texas is not surprising. Our neighbors to the east have elevated gas station dining into an art form, as exemplified by Buc-ee鈥檚, the chain of convenience stores and gas stations that offers an onsite bakery and a brisket station, among other food options.
D鈥檚 BBQ is the more senior of the two operations, having opened in 2024 inside the Quick Stop convenience store at the Shwan gas station just north of Interstate 40. There鈥檚 no obvious signage out front, but trust me, it鈥檚 there. Go inside, hang a left, walk past the slushie machines, and you鈥檒l find the counter and a small dining area crowded with cushioned booths.
The 鈥淒鈥 in D鈥檚 BBQ is Andre 鈥淒re鈥 Williams, a Fort Worth, Texas, native who runs the place with his wife Stephanie. He told me that the Fort Worth area has lots of sit-down restaurants in gas stations, and he wanted to bring that option to the people of sa国际传媒官网网页入口. Williams鈥 ambitious vision for the restaurant sees it evolving into a Waffle House-style operation that鈥檚 open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Toward that end, he鈥檚 adding a breakfast menu with pancakes, waffles and grits.
The hours of operation vary depending on how fast the food runs out. Unofficially, it opens at 9 a.m. for breakfast and closes at 7 p.m. I was there just after noon, and supplies were already running low. Only three of the dozen or so sides on the menu were available. I would recommend calling ahead to see what they have, especially if you鈥檙e planning to visit in the afternoon.
The menu, displayed on several digital screens that hang above the counter, is a welcome sight in a city that has a dearth of soul food places. Items vary based on availability. One day, there might be brisket; another, baby back ribs. Plates with a protein and two sides start at $12 and climb to $22.99.
After ordering at the counter, you wait until your name is called. My food came out in about 20 minutes.
A standout on the menu is the Seafood Plate ($22.99) featuring a few catfish fillets and a handful of large shrimp breaded and fried and served on foil in a Styrofoam container with cups of tartar and cocktail sauce. The three pieces of catfish were sweet, mild-flavored and not fishy at all, and the shrimp was snappy and moist under the crunchy, well-seasoned coating. The fried cabbage added a vinegary zing, the mild-flavored potato salad some stick-to-the-ribs starch.
The Oxtail Plate ($22.99) consisted of two pieces of oxtail coated in gravy and served over Cajun rice. There wasn鈥檛 much meat on the bones, but what was there was tender enough to be teased off with a plastic fork. The savory gravy added a hit of heat, and rice alive with seasoning and smoky, sweet baked beans further augmented the dish.
The drink selection was limited to water when I was there. Of course, you鈥檙e in a convenience store, so it鈥檚 easy to grab something while you wait for your food.
The service was friendly and attentive. Andre and Stephanie Williams were visible presences in the dining area and made everyone feel welcome. The experience was more like eating at a friend鈥檚 house than at an impersonal restaurant.
Just a couple miles north of D鈥檚 is Shawarma Loco, a food truck that has attracted rave reviews online since opening earlier this year.
The owner Ahmed relocated here from Houston last year. His vivid green truck operates every day from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. on the north side of the Alon gas station at Comanche Road NE. The halal menu is built around chicken and gyro shawarma. The 鈥渓oco鈥 part of the title refers to an optional spicy sauce.
The menu displayed next to the ordering window is simple. You select a protein and a meal option such as a sandwich, rice bowl or quesadilla. Prices range from $8.49 to $12.49, and vegan and gluten-free items are marked on the menu. The Vegetarian Platter with falafel, dolmas and hummus is $10.49.
When I visited for lunch, there were a couple of customers ahead of me. Through the window I saw stacks of chicken and gyro meat spinning slowly on neighboring rotisserie grills. The chicken had been cut almost down to the core, but the gyro, a mix of beef and lamb, was untouched, so I ordered it as part of the Arabi Meal ($12.49), which includes a protein, fries and pickled vegetables. As I looked on, Ahmed cut off dollar-bill-sized slices of gyro meat and chopped them up on a cutting board next to the window. He then added sliced red onions and aioli-like garlic sauce and wrapped the whole thing in a large, thin flour tortilla. He finished it on the grill and then sliced it into eight pieces and served it over fries.
After eating so many gyros in pita bread, I found the thin, crisp tortilla wrapping to be a revelation. It allowed the spicy gyro meat to shine. The garlic sauce added a tangy charge.
The medium-cut fries were decent, and the small serving of pickled vegetables that came from a can included cauliflower, red pepper and carrot slices.
The nine side dishes, including Hummus and Baba Ghanouj, are priced from $1.49 to $4.49.
I chose the Falafel ($3.49). The three pieces, made to order in the fryer and served in a Styrofoam container with garlic sauce, were exceptional: slightly flattened spheres wearing a crunchy armor over a soft core, the mild, nutty flavor getting a boost from the sauce.
It took about 20 minutes for my food to come out. Drinks are limited to sodas.
Unfortunately, there were no seating options as of my visit, though several parks are located nearby.
D鈥檚 BBQ and Shawarma Loco are unique additions to the local food scene. Both are worth a visit, whether you need gas or not.