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Dig in!: 'Forks in the Road' features the iconic eateries, stories and smells of New Mexico
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Visitors will be forgiven if they salivate through the latest exhibition at the Palace of the Governors.
鈥淔orks in the Road: A Diner鈥檚 Guide to New Mexico鈥� features iconic eateries, stories and smells curated by Catherine Trujillo and guest curator John Vollertsen, a private Santa Fe chef known as 鈥淐hef Johnny Vee.鈥�
鈥淚t鈥檚 an immersive culinary experience,鈥� Trujillo said. 鈥淲e asked, 鈥楬ow do New Mexicans gather around food?鈥� We landed on restaurants.鈥�
Dig in!: 'Forks in the Road' features the iconic eateries, stories and smells of New Mexico
Visitors can muse about their first bite of rich red chile, fork-tender carne adovada or the tingling taste buds of a Hatch green chile enchilada.
New Mexicans are proud of their cuisine, and visitors from around the world come here to see what all the delicious fuss is about.
Museum curators asked for nominations online; they received more than 100. The winners ranged from Santa Fe鈥檚 Plaza Caf茅 and Tia Sophia鈥檚, to Mr. Powdrell鈥檚 Barbeque House and Duran鈥檚 Central Pharmacy in sa国际传媒官网网页入口, to Clovis鈥� Foxy Drive-In and Charlie鈥檚 Spic & Span Cafe in Las Vegas, New Mexico.
Mr. Powdrell鈥檚 Barbeque House was a beloved sa国际传媒官网网页入口 institution renowned for its smoky, juicy brisket until its closure in late June. Founded by Pete Powdrell in 1984, the restaurant had been a local favorite for generations. Its reputation soared when Paul Allen, who co-founded Microsoft with his friend Bill Gates in sa国际传媒官网网页入口 in 1975, discovered the joys of Powdrell鈥檚 smoky, juicy brisket sandwich. Years later in 2016, Allen brought the taste of sa国际传媒官网网页入口 to Seattle Seahawks fans by partnering with Powdrell鈥檚 Barbeque to serve its hickory-smoked brisket topped with its signature barbecue sauce at the stadium.
Economic hardship drove Greek immigrants to the American West in the early 20th century. Leonardo Razatos, second-generation owner of the Plaza Caf茅, credits the Greek emphasis on hospitality and communal dining for the widespread success of Greeks in the industry. Danny Razatos bought the restaurant in 1947. He was famously adamant that neither tourists nor locals would come to Santa Fe to eat Greek food.
In 1961, Danny married a Santa Fe woman, Bene Saiz, who had grown up on beans, chile and flour tortillas. New Mexican recipes adapted from her family began appearing on the menu.
In 1974, Anthony and Sophia Maryol鈥檚 son Jim and his wife Ann bought a former Chinese restaurant on Santa Fe鈥檚 San Francisco Street. They opened Tia Sophia鈥檚 there, honoring Jim鈥檚 mother. Focusing on local chile dishes, Tia鈥檚 became renowned for popularizing the smothered breakfast burrito. The term 鈥淐hristmas,鈥� describing both red and green chile, also originated at Tia鈥檚.
sa国际传媒官网网页入口鈥檚 Duran鈥檚 Central Pharmacy opened in 1942, when soda fountains lodged a permanent spot in drug stores. The pharmacist Robert Ghattas bought the business in 1965, when the trend was waning. He introduced daily lunch specials to attract more customers. He soon transformed the soda fountain into a full-fledge restaurant serving a variety of New Mexican dishes.
Both scent and sounds will accompany museum-goers as they learn about their favorite restaurants. The anise and cinnamon scent of biscochitos will waft from a portable station. The smell of roasting red and green chiles will whet the appetite as guests wander.
A culinary jukebox soundtrack blares food-related songs such as 鈥淩oute 66,鈥� recorded by everyone from Chuck Berry and Nat King Cole to Depeche Mode. The iconic song leads a list that features 鈥淣ew Mexico鈥� by Johnny Cash, 鈥淚 Love Sopaipillas鈥� by Peter Apel, 鈥淗ot Dogs and Frybread Too鈥� by Faran Sohappy, 鈥淪panish Rice鈥� by Clark Terry and 鈥淩ed Red Wine鈥� by UB40, among others.
The exhibit includes a replica dining booth for selfies and a state map showing restaurants nominated by the public. Visitors will be able to contribute their own restaurant memories by recording stories on a call-in telephone.
鈥淚 get hungry just walking in there,鈥� Trujillo said. 鈥淚t鈥檚 more than the food, it鈥檚 the people behind it. It鈥檚 our collective menu of these restaurants.鈥�
